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You are listening to The McDodi Farms
Theme©, composed by
The Jester. |
Tennessee Walking Horse people are a
pretty friendly bunch, and are always willing to help out with a
bit of worthy advice. Here are some of the tidbits we have
gathered so far. Please feel free to
email us
and add your two cents.
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----- Original
Message -----
From:
steve whitmer
To:
TWHbreeders@ yahoogroups. com
Sent:
Friday, January 08, 2010 6:04 AM
Subject:
Re: [TWHbreeders] SkunksEqual parts
dish soap vinegar and baking soda... add the baking soda last
since it makes it foam... I make a huge batch and put it on a
dry coat since wetting the coat first causes the your eyes to
water more... let it sit for as long as possible.. rinse it
off .Reapply if you want . I let them dry first becuase the horses tend to go roll out in the dirt while they are wet and I
fugure that some of that dirt would remove some of that oily skunk residue as well.
This recipe is not going to get rid of all the smell you can do it over again or shampoo with a shampoo
like Vetrolin.... If it's spring and they are shedding, curry the coat after a few shampoos for lingering odor. I think horses
tend to drop skunk odor pretty quickly.
The webiste that I got this recipe from
said it could lighten the coat.. Not a huge concern for me.. I
have used the same recipe for Chestnut, Palomino and Cremello
manes and tails to brighten them up...It works on those tails to
get the manure and urine out of them..
This has worked on my horses and my old
Border Collie
Walking Away A Winner
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--- Original Message -----
From:
TBeckmon@SkiesRBlue.com
Sent: Friday, December 11,
2009 9:57 AM
Subject: RE: [TWHbreeders] Re: Animal care.......
We use electric warmers. There
are some that run on propane if no elec. is available. Another trick
if no elec. is available... fill a metal barrel with enough large
rocks so it can stand on the bottom of the tank. Pour some old motor
oil on the rocks and a little gas to ignite it. It is a smoky mess
but it burns for hours and is inexpensive. It is great for horses
and cattle out on the range. If you
can't find enough rocks, put in cement blocks.
Tim
We rarely drop into the
single digits, so I cannot imagine 17 below. How do you keep your
animal's water supply from freezing?
Donna |
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Sent: Friday, November 06, 2009 10:29 AM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: FEI dressage
horse abuse
A lubricated mouth is good, so a wet mouth is
good. SOMETIMES horses drip slobbers because they cannot swallow
properly due to constant pressure the bit places on their tongues. I
believe tongue relief to be essential in a good bit. Favorite
mouthpiece is the
MB04 Myler mullen barrel, and I have that in most of my bits,
curb and snaffle.
Salivation occurs not just from discomfort... when the horse
"gives" at the poll nicely (as in a vertical face) there is some
natural compression of the salivary glands under and just behind the
jaw. This compression increases the drool and also increases the
horse's need to swallow this drool. Watch a lot of the Arabian show
horses... they are very drippy because they actually go behind the
vertical with their face, and often have bits like a spade bit to
"get" this face carriage that inhibit the horse's ability to
swallow.
When a bit inhibits the natural swallowing action of the tongue the
drool has nowhere to go, as Nate has pointed out. BUT I have horses
that produce slobbery mouths "without a bit", so No the bit is not
always responsible for wet mouths... sometimes yes, sometimes no,
and the Myler bits do not make the wet mouths go away, it just gives
the horse a way to deal with it.
Further... a walking horse (or other gaited horse) with a pronounced
head nod at the flat walk has a natural back and forth movement of
the tongue. Some horses almost appear to "lick at the ground" as
they nod their heads... this also is why (I believe) you have many
that will click their teeth as they nod... they are relaxing and
responding to the natural movement as the head moves up and down.
The tongue is attached, via ligaments to the shoulder support
structure which further adds to this movement as they roll in their
shoulders.... Actually
Myler's website has a nice article that talks about this,
complete with graphics.
So when you get a really big nodding horse, the
movement of the tongue is more pronounced and it becomes even more
important for them to have a free moving tongue so it does not
inhibit the natural head nod. The free flowing (and freely
swallowed) saliva keep the mouth wet and lubricates... all of
which increases comfort.
Anita |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
Charlotte
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:15 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: Teaching a horse to park out-new member
Hello!!
Yes, I am hooked on gaited horses. They are so nice to trailride on.
Ummm, no, I don't know how to teach a horse to park out on the
ground. Any info on this would be great!
Charlotte |
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TWHbreeders@yahoog roups.com
denise rowland
Hi, new member..and congrats on your first
walking horse..face it now you are hooked...teach your horse to park
out from the ground first, then you transition that to parking out
while mounted (usually the cues for parking while mounted are either
a tap on each shoulder to move her feet out, or a slight rocking
from side to side after stopping....do you know how to teach one to
park out on thee ground? |
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Ron and Maud Hamilton
jrh1@erols.com
Park: Stand on the near side and make sure the horse has all feet
fairly side-by-side and not strung out in back. Take your foot and
tap the back of the closest front foot (pastern area), usually with
your foot and lean into the horse by the upper shoulder sort of
gently pushing him to shift weight off that foot and move it
forward. Say 'park'. It will take several taps to give him the idea
and would help if someone else could lift the foot after you tap it
and move it forward. Don't move the horse too far forward for each
foot. Then sort of 'pull' the shoulder toward you (rocking the horse
off the other front foot so it is easier to move that foot)and tap
on the back of the other front foot. Practice every day and soon you
can say 'park' and touch the upper shoulder area and the horse will
park. Maud |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
Jerry Sizemore
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Re: Teaching a horse to park out-new
member
Maud gave a very good description of how to teach one to park. A
couple of tips to add to what Maud posted that I have found helpful
is: 1. Doing this on a slight incline helps, especially if the horse
knows nothing about parking 2. Once you get the horse to park reward
him with a bite of hay or grass or petting or something. It will
make him want to park out when asked.
Jerry |
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----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:59 PM
Subject: tip and tidbits
I have used apple cider vinegar to remove a really heavy collection
of mold from a saddle. Let the saddle dry and then use leather
conditioner to finish the job. Turns out great.
Maud (Hamilton) |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
GARY PEGG
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] hobbles
"The soil is sandy and I do not want sand colic. How is the best way
to teach them about hobbles?"
We ride in the wilderness areas a lot where it is considered bad
form if your horse paws while tied to a tree. Gives the
environmental fanatics evidence that horses are ruining the place. I
teach all my horses to hobble.
I like to start them in the cross ties, tied to a hitching rail or
on a high line. That way the first time they run into the hobbles
they aren't trying to go anywhere just shuffle their feet a little.
If you put the hobbles on a horse that is loose the first time more
often than not they will try to walk off somewhere, catch on the
hobbles and fall to their knees. I always worry they are going to
hurt themselves that way. Putting them on a horse that is tied seems
to eliminate that concern. After they get used to them while they
are tied, I will lead them out somewhere with soft soil (your sandy
soil sounds good) put the hobbles on then just back away from the
horse. The most common reaction at this point is they just take
little bitty steps or half hop where they want to go. There are
those that will just stand and refuse to move, luring them with a
bucket of grain just out of their reach will teach them to move a
little at a time.
As someone mentioned hobbling a few times doesn't really teach them
not to paw, just prevents them from pawing. If you really want to
teach them not to paw you have to be willing to put the hobbles on
every time you feed until the horse gets out of the habit of pawing.
I got tired of chasing down my feed pans that the pastured horses
would fling around, or worse, the colts would pick them up with
their teeth and drag them down in the woods where they are almost
impossible to find. I ended up bolting them to a four foot square of
rubber belting or stall mat. Drill a hole through the center of the
pan and center of the rubber mat, use a couple of big flat washers
to keep the pan hole from ripping out. That way the horse has to
stand on the matting to reach the grain, and being bolted down the
pan won't flip no matter how much they paw it.
Orygun Gary |
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----- Original Message -----
From: Ron and Maud Hamilton
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] wound dressing
Another idea from the vets: When you have to wrap a barefoot hoof
using
duck tape--Take four or five (depends on the size of the hoof bottom
to be
covered) strips of the tape, put one vertically and gently on the
outside of
a stall and then slightly overlap the next one on the first one and
continue
overlapping with the rest of the strips. Then have the same number
of
strips but run the strips horizontally over the middle of the
vertical ones.
Remove the 'patch' from the wall and press really good on the middle
area.
When you are ready to put the patch on the bottom of the hoof, the
free ends
will hold the patch on while you add more duck tape around the upper
part of
the hoof.
Maud |
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----- Original Message -----
From: Denise
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:22 AM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Getting Ready For Foaling Season
Those spring foals are right around the corner, and it's time to
gather up the "foaling" kits..... I always keep at least a small
bucket of mares milk plus by Buckeye on hand for emergencies (the
best milk replacer I've found)....a bottle of Karo syrup (a jump
start for the colt in case you have a slow one)...foal response
(contains colostrum and nutrients) or a bottle of serramune
IGg.......betadine solution..tetanus, fleet enema..clean towel...and
something to tie up the afterbirth if the mare gets up and starts
dragging it around (by watching on camera though, if you leave the
mare totally alone after foaling she will stay down until it
passes..and I have found that unless there are problems there is
absolutely nothing that needs to be done in the first 2 hours after
foaling, if the vaccines are up to date and the delivery has gone
routinely)... even when I need to give a hand and help pull a colt,
I usually just rip the sack and take it off it's head, make sure
he's breathing ok and leave....watch the rest on camera...I keep
banamine onhand for later, just in case and oxytocin in case she
doesn't pass the afterbrith...store up my diet coke, coffee, some
junk foods and a good book and settle into the lounge to watch the
foalcam and TV...in a busy year I have been know to actually live
there for weeks at a time...
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Back in 1987, just a few
days prior to the last night of the Celebration, Black
Diamond threw a shoe (band bolt broke) and it broke so much
foot off that there was no way to get more than 2 nails into
the foot. He wasn't in any pain but he definitely didn't
have enough foot to hold the package on.
Two nights before the last
night and the 15.2 and under WGC, my dad had a brainstorm
and asked a dentist who had a horse there in training for
some of the epoxy they make dentures out of and plenty of
teeth brace wire and those small screws they screw into
teeth.
After about 12 hours of
shoeing and setting about 80 micro screws into the edge of
the hoof and bigger screws into the pads, Dad put a nail on
each side where he could get it and laced the hoof to the
shoe and then built Diamond a fake foot out of denture
epoxy.
Needless to say we were on
the edge of our seats during the class but the shoe stayed
on and Diamond went on to be crowned the 87 15.2 and under
WGC.
Matt (Choate)
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----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:48 PM
Subject: tidbits
From: Ronnie Fulton
Subject: Re: [Performance TWH] Re: Tail bags
I always used laser sheen. it's a little pricey, but worked
wonders. Took tangles right out of my gelding's tail, which was
VERY thick and long. I'd spray it, work the mist in by hand,
re-spray, let it sit for about 5 minutes, re-spray and then start
brushing his tail out, re-spray and run a comb through it. After
everything was done, I'd braid it up, run the end of the tail
through the top braid and put electrical tape on the tail. I went
through a roll of tape every second or third braiding! I never had
any problem losing hair and his tail grew and grew. Same thing for
the manes. I'd spray them, brush them out, and then do like a
French braid down the mane to keep it up and they grew out nicely.
Ron |
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Subject: Re: [PerformanceTWH] Tailbags/oil
and cond.?
I use MTG & LOTS of it!----My
gelding has a very long, thick tail & without lots of MTG &
other conditioner, I'd never be able to comb it out. I don't
wash his tail very often---I just load it up with MTG & & braid
it, then tape it up or put it in a tail bag. The tail still
gets damp from him being hosed off after work-outs, but that's
OK. It will get some stall dust & dirt in it & I take it down &
brush his tail out about every three weeks. Point is----it
doesn't hurt to leave lots of MTG in the tail & to leave it
braided up for awhile. You really don't need to wash a tail
that much---the MTG will keep down the tailbone dandruff & it
also makes it easy to brush out & wash without stripping the
mane & tail of all it's oil. I keep lots of MTG & creme
conditioner in the mane too, & rarely actually wash manes---just
spray off. If the M&T are kept squeaky clean all the time, it
will tangle alot more----at least that's been my experience.
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----- Original Message -----
From: Deer Creek Walkers
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 9:18 AM
Subject: Fire the pawing machine
We have done several different things in an effort to reduce the
"sloshing" of the feed. The most effective thing, but also the most
time consuming, was to only put a small amount of feed into the dish
at a time. When we later gradually added more and more feed back
into the dish at one time, the sloshing behavior wasn't nearly as
frequent. Kind of got them out of the habit.
We have also put a large rock in the feeder as the horse will have
to try to work around the rock to try to get the feed and it
occupies their mind trying to get to the food. I haven't tried
it, but another option is using a feed bag and attaching to
the halter.
For us it's been a lot more effective to try to distract from the
unwanted behavior rather than punish it. Seems like you have to be
extremely discreet and your timing virtually perfect or the horse
associates the punishment with you and not the behavior.
Deeper feed dishes can reduce the amount of feed that actually hits
the ground though it doesn't reduce the sloshing behavior itself. On
the colts who persisted with banging the stall wall beneath the
feeder while eating (that is so totally annoying when you are
feeding!), we have moved them to a long trough outside and spread
the food thinly. Again, they still sling their heads, but it's less
than with the dish and less of the feed leaves the trough. And if
they paw and slosh, they can dig a hole at the trough, but well
placed mats can eliminate that. Chuck also cut a cattle panel
to fit over the top of one outside feeder that we have, and the
horse must stick his nose down through the the holes to eat. He
cannot sling his head from side to side to knock feed from the
feeder. When cutting a panel like that you have to be careful that
none of the cut edges protrude over the edge of the feeder,
though, or you'll have stitches to deal with. He attached ours to a
wooden frame, then drilled the frame and feeder edges and attached
with wire. It worked perfectly.
We also use pieces of cut cattle panels to line our commercially
made hay feeders in the stalls. Our hay is fairly fine and short and
a lot was ending up underfoot in the stall. The liners keep the
horse from inadvertently pulling big chunks of hay out and the extra
hitting the floor. It's really reduced a lot of hay wastage
for us.
As far as learning to stand tied quietly by a trailer or anything
else - if it's an adult horse I have no problem giving them the tree
treatment. They can stand tied several hours a day to different
trees and places around our farm and just learn that no amount of
pawing, pushing on the tree, banging with their feet or anything
else is going to help. They will learn to zone out and just stand
there. This is best done after a good workout. It isn't fair to pull
them out of the stall all fresh and expect them to want to stand
quietly when they want to go play or burn off some energy. I will
admit we have had to fill in some pretty good sized pits from all
the pawing that initially goes on, but ignoring them is the best and
easiest way. They'll figure it out on their own. If you
teach your horse to stand with hobbles on, he can wear them safely,
but it won't eliminate the way his brain is working, and you'll
always have to keep the hobbles with you.
~ Mary |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
Bansidhe Graphics
To: McDodi Farm
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2004 7:17 AM
Subject: BBC2's Daily Horse Tips of the Trade
We get horse tips here in the UK every day on BBC2 TV... today's is:
Take a piece of baler twine from a hay bale, and wrap each end in a
loop around around your hands, to form a twisted length between
them... use this instead of a sweat scraper to remove excess water
and hair from your horse's coat after a bath or a hard ride. This
works better than a metal sweat scraper because it fits into all the
curves and crannies of your horse's body, and it doesn't ever
scratch the hide like a metal scraper can. It's more comfortable for
the horse, and it does a better job than the metal one. It's cheaper
too.
Good, eh? : ))))
Here's another one: if you have a foal that is reluctant to nurse,
scratch his neck along the mane and you will produce a natural
suckling reflex... guide his head under the mare to the udder, and
keep scratching.. your foal will nurse.
Some of these tips don't really apply to our horses, like the ones
about pulling manes, but most are pretty good tips...
Judy Handel,
Bansidhe
Graphics |
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----- Original Message -----
From: MtnRidgeWalker@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 10:09 PM
Subject: Cold Weather Survival Tricks
I thought this might be a good time to share survival tricks since
cold weather is here. Does anyone have any tricks for freezing
temps?
With water troughs, I put a hay string tied to a stick (hang the
stick off the side of the trough) in the water so I can pull the
sheet of ice off in the morning without having to put my hands in
the freezing water. |
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----- Original
Message -----
From: Dodie Sable
Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 10:25 AM
Subject: Cold Weather Survival Tricks
We float a corn cob in the buckets inside the barn, the horses push
them around while they're drinking, keeps the ice off the buckets. I
also have a metal colander with a handle (it's about the size a
baseball can fit in it) and I use that to scoop out chunks of ice.
For the plastic water tubs in the paddocks, we also use the string
and stick trick...but instead of a stick, we use two blocks of wood
that are chained together and have a chain attached to the fence - I
yank the chain, the blocks pull the ice up then I can scoop out the
chunks with the colander.
Other winter time tricks we use....
We spray PAM cooking oil on the soles of the feet before turning out
in heavy wet snow, prevents snowballs from forming those lovely and
dangerous high-heels.
We bank the sides of the pasture water trough with fresh manure and
cover with a plastic bag...the process of the manure working keeps
the water in the metal tank warmer and even in the deepest freeze,
we'll only get a skiff of ice across the top of it...easily broken
by
a muzzle pushing on it.
We use cleanings from the straw bedded stalls to line over icy
paths. Nice thing is that it also helps to melt the ice and provides
traction when it refreezes. Works in high traffic areas for people
as well as horses. I don't recommend using cleanings from a shavings
stall for this as it doesn't breakdown as quickly as the straw so
when spring comes, the shavings leave a bigger mess to clean up. |
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November 17, 2004
3:38 PM
From: maskr8ng@aol.com
Subject: mayonnaise
Mayo is the best for a deep conditioner. I like to use it several
days before a show and be sure to give a good show bath on the day
of the class. The best results I have found are to use a generous
handful in a bucket of water with a sponge and go all over the horse
with it. That way you don't get too much residue.
dd |
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Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:21 AM
TWH breeders - Pride of Midnight Top 11
Here are the top producers in numbers of
all time I think.
Ebony Masterpiece 3,410
Sun's Delight
2,641
Prides Generator 2,621
Midnight Sun
2,483
The Pusher
1,932
Merry Go Boy 1,852
Gen's Armed and Dangerous 1552 and rising
daily
Pride Of Midnight 1,545
Carbon Copy 1,312
Prides Dark Spirit 1,281
Ebony's Senator
1279
Walt
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Tuesday, November 25, 2003
hi
Hello, if you use a floating or a sinking heater use a cage or it
will melt your rubber mate/plastic tank. (I have a rubber mate tank
only a small burn hole for sale!) I would make sure it is grounded.
Here is what I do for my water in the winter. I get a large
(giveaway UN-cracked) freezer. Take the lid off and fill it with
water. I cover it 3/4 of the way with a sheet of plywood put a hole
in the plywood and drop a heater in on the covered side (this keeps
the horses from putting their nose on it and getting burned) put the
cord through a small long PVC pipe (this keeps them from biting
through the cord) They last years. Its my Recycling contribution!
Mary Malone |
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From:
chsmtrl@aol.com
Tuesday, April 29, 2003 2:36 AM
Subject: West Nile Virus.......From another list
I attended a seminar on West Nile last week at Kansas State
University. The horse information was given by Dr. Bonnie Rush,
Clinical Sciences,
KSU College of Veterinary Medicine. Just thought I would pass on
some of the more pertinent and interesting information she
presented. Feel free to cut and paste this email to any other forums
or sites you wish. Refresh water containers 1 time per week. If you
have large stock tanks put in goldfish or minnows to eat the
mosquito larvae. Light colored horses seem more susceptible
and come down with the disease more frequently than dark colored
horses. A horse in the evening in a wooded pastures gets approx 2000
mosquito bites per hour. If unvaccinated, they are 25 times more
likely to get the disease and 8 times more likely to die if they get
the disease than vaccinated horses. Approx 27% of the horses get
protective antibodies without showing any signs. Old age and stress
(i.e. stallions) increase the occurrence. Vaccinate 2
times per
year after initial first time booster, so give in early spring and
around July. Foals from vaccinated mares should be vaccinated at
3,4, and 6 months. Foals from unvaccinated mares should be
vaccinated at 1,2,3, and 6 months. Cost for average recovery if they
get sick - $1100-$1400. Cost if they go recumbent....$2500 and 70%
of the ones that go recumbent will die from it. They saw no
correlation between the vaccine and abortion or still birth but said
an unvaccinated mare that contracted it was much more likely
to lose her
foal. Of the 55 cases that KSU saw this year, 5 were vaccinated and
all 5 lived that were vaccinated lived.
Dr. Suzy |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
Deer Creek Farm
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 11:22
AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Parking
out under saddle
Saddle him and practice parking him out with you standing there
holding him. Take the stirrup in your hand and tap him in the area
of his elbow/shoulder (will depend on personal adjustments and size
of horse where the stirrups fall, but it won't matter) as you give
him the voice command to park (whatever command you use). Do this on
both sides. When you have him parking out well well using the
stirrups from the ground, try getting on and use your foot in the
stirrup the same way, using the voice command to park. You can also
squeeze the withers of the horse both from the ground and while you
are in the saddle if you'd like to incorporate that.
When giving this lesson at first, I'd do it in the same place each
day so that he is mentally in tune to "lesson time". I wouldn't try
parking him out from his back in a different setting until he had
the lesson down really
well in his "park out" lesson spot. Hope this helps. If not, I'm
sure someone else knows of a better way.
Good luck!
Mary :)
PS In the beginning, you may have to be pretty "obvious" about the
stirrup tapping, but as he gets better, you will be able to reduce
the signal to just slight movement and/or voice command/wither
squeeze. |
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Reread a 1940 magazine article I
have about Wilson's Allen and came up with these horses by
Wilson's Allen:
Victor Allen
Strolling Jim
Pride of Memphis
The G Man
Haynes Peacock
Nellie Gray
Wilson Allen Jr.
Wilson Allen Again
Melody Maid
Strolling Mary
Wilson Allen's Lady
Merry Legs III
Melody Maid
Knox Phagan
Carter's Allen
Newhi
Strolling Sister
The article mentioned that
Wilson' Allen did not live long enough to see the championships
won by his great offspring.
-cyndy
Webmaster's Note:
For a complete list of the progeny of Wilson's Allen, click
HERE.
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----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 9:05 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] aggressive filly
Hi, My friend needs some
advice. She has as TWH mare that foaled in a big pasture and
wouldn't let people or horse near the filly until it was four weeks
old. Then the mare started bringing it up every day, but
the filly naturally didn't want to be touched. My friend is
trying to make friends with the filly, but when she tried to pet or
scratch her, the filly tries to kick or bite the owner. This
is the owners first foal, there is a barn but no round pen.
Some of her friends said not to worry about it the filly will come
around, while others said if needed, rope her foot and throw her
down and get a halter on her. I know that you all have had
lots more experience than anyone here, so any advice will be
appreciated. Thanks for your help.
Trouble |
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Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] aggressive filly
Hi,
We USED to have a mare who wouldn't allow much
contact with her babies, and I wouldn't get to do much with them
until weaning. Sometimes the colt would initiate contact out
of curiosity and momma wouldn't have it, but the colts did a
complete turn around during weaning. A feed bucket can work
wonders. Instead of just putting feed out for them, teach
them that they have to come close enough to you to get a bite out
of the bucket. Just settle for that for a few days. As
the colt becomes more relaxed with that arrangement, SLOWLY
initiate a little petting with your free hand, and not around the
head. Start at their chest or neck area and work slowly with
what the colt will accept. It won't be long that the colt
will think that's just a part of feeding time. Try haltering
the same way. Let them get used to you rubbing it around on
them at feeding time and slowly halter him. I've even
started them out leading by following me and the feed bucket
around in the stall. If they lead one circle around
smoothly, reward them with a bite out of the bucket. The
more you tug, the more he'll lock up those front legs. We
can usually lead in both directions and stop on "whoa" in no time.
Make all of your sessions short and quit on a good note.
Good luck,
Donna
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Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 4:16 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: aggressive filly
I have had unhandled "wild"
weanlings join-up with me in a small enclosed area. I have even used
a 12X24 foaling stall for this. What I try to do is stand back
towards their hip and butt just so they can barely see me out
the corner of one eye. Shouldn't be a problem since as you approach
this filly in a enclosed area she will swing her butt at you. When
you are in position behind her, slap your leg and cluck to her.
Don't get too close or she will bolt off. As soon as she turns just
a hair, take a step back and be quiet. You first have to get her
head to get her trust and respect. This will take timing and
patience but she will start to turn around fully and back-offing if
timed correctly she will soon follow you around the stall of
enclosed area. You really don't need to chase the filly around in a
round pen to get this to work. If I can just get her to turn the
head the first few days that would be good.,,,,,, mike |
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Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 1:38 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: aggressive filly
Lots of choices on this. I wouldn't wait til weaning. What
we do twice a day is take a bucket or something low and sit
quietly in the stall while mom is eating and after a period the
colt is to curious to stand not checking out the new thing in the
stall. Don't make any fast moves and let it just smell you the
first few times. You usually
over time can start stroking the neck and so on. We at this point
put a foal halter on with a 12 in. grab strap. We only use the
grab strap to keep them facing us and not turning butt end to us.
Hasn't failed yet and it takes patience and time. But the baby
learns to trust and not be terrified. I agree roping and holding
the foal down if it's this scared is not a good move. Remember
horses are a flight animal and if left with little human contact
fall back on that and fight when cornered. This baby is doing what
is natural for being born and living in a pasture. Wish your
friend the best of luck and lots of patience.
Cher
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From:
Gege36@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: Horse AHolic
Hello, I AM a horse-aholic. I would like to welcome all of you
to this month's online meeting of Horse-Aholicas Anonymous.
You may be sitting there thinking that you are OK, and don't
really need any help. It is not easy to realize that you are a
horse-aholic, and even harder to bring yourself to a HA
meeting for help. HA is here to assist you. I have some
questions to ask to try to determine if you can be helped:
1. Can you say 'sheath' in
public without blushing?
2. Do you know exactly what 'snaffle' means? (No, it is not
a drink!)
3. Do you drive a truck with some type of towing package
and/or dual rear wheel when everyone else you know drives a
real car?
4. Do you have more than one type of trailer because you own
horses?
5. Do you spend your holidays going to shows, sales,
clinics, and seminars when everyone else goes on cruises?
6. Do you discuss things at the dinner table that would make
a doctor leave in disgust?
7. Do you consider formal wear clean jeans and freshly
scraped boots?
8. Does the inside of your home look like your interior
decorator is 'State Line Tack'?
9. Do you often have barn boots on your front porch?
10. Is your mail made up primarily of breed magazines and
horse catalogs?
11. Do your shirt pockets often contain bits of feed, hay,
and empty syringe covers?
12. Do you worry about paying your monthly feed bill before
you think of paying your electric bill?
13. When you meet a person, do you ask how many horses they
have, and pity them if the answer is none?
14. Do you remember the name of a great-great-great
grandsire when you can't remember your own Great
grandfather's name?
15. Is your primary dream in life to breed the perfect foal?
16. Do you find non-horse people boring?
17. Is 99% of your e-mail about horses?
18. Do you have a collection of bits even larger than your
collection of horses?
19. Does you halter collection include more than four foal
halters, all the same size?
20. Do you know more than five people this list fits
exactly?
If you answered YES to three
of these questions, you are in pretty good shape. You will
lead a long, dull life, and never call your mother and tell
her "I'm in the hospital, but everything is fine! The horse is
ok."
If you answered YES to 10,
you are in serious trouble. Give in gracefully, and become a
member of Horse-Aholics Anonymous now... You will qualify
eventually anyway.
If you answered YES to 15 or
more, you are incurable. My advice to those who, like me, are
incurable is as follows.....Sit back, smile, read your email,
and know that your life will always be filled with good
friends and better horses, and it will never be boring!
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-----
Original Message -----
From:
Empty Pockets Farm
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:11 AM
Subject: RE: [TWHbreeders] Re: colostrum in the freezer
Mary,
I use a breast pump. Have one that is hand operated and one
that uses batteries. Works great. I found this little tip when
my vet loaned me his wife’s breast pump to use for a foal that
could not nurse.
Althea Odom
Empty Pockets Farm |
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From:
Hillcrest
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum
Absolutely right! If I am going to save any at all it is
the first day and sometimes the 2nd if mom has a lot, but I
never go past the 2nd day. Guess if I thought I had to for
some reason, I would, but I never have. And I always tell
people to thaw it at room temperature, never in a Microwave. I
have never had to use any, I have always given it away to
people who have needed it. I have never been able to sell any,
and would not even know what to ask for it. I know I have been
told it is like Liquid Gold, being the lifesaver it is. I have
had 2 people recommended by my (our) vet to call me because he
has told them I may have some for them and this year I don't
have any. I have one mare who will foal (hopefully) next year
and she is quite the heavy milker, so I will do it again next
year...just in case of Emergencies, I like to plan ahead, if
possible!
Vicky |
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From:
Dodi
Speece
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum
Vicki,
The first day has the best colostrum, quality tapers off after
that, it can be heat treated but as far as I know it is not
needed with equine milk. The second day would still help an
orphan or one that is not on Mom real well, but the first milk
is the strongest.
Dodi
McDodi Farms
Quality Tennessee Walking Horses
http://www.McdodiFarms.com//index.html
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From:
Hillcrest
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum
Does anyone out there regularly save any of the mare's
Colostrum for emergencies? I used to do this pretty much on a
regular basis when I could do it, and it has helped or saved
other foals more than once. How I do it is wash the mares
udders and milk her out once a day for the first two days. You
could probably go for three, but I don't. And you don't
want to take anything away from baby either. But I get a glass
container (bowl or glass) and get what I can. Try to
keep it as clean as possible. I then take the Colostrum and
transfer it into
Ziploc Baggies, noting the mare and date that it was collected
and freeze it. I am sure others have different ways, but
that's what I do. I believe it lasts a year or so. I don't put
a whole lot in the baggies either, just a few ounces in each
for quick thawing and none gets wasted that way.
Vicky |
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From: Lynn
Henschell
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Stallion manners?
I really like stallions. We have 3 now and I have had others
in the past. Some made and some foaled here. If you are not
going to use him for breeding in any substantial way, do the
kindest thing you can do and geld him. You can breed to the
best TWH's for less than it costs to care for him in one year.
Failing that, have a great deal of respect for what nature
intended for them to do. Put him outside 24/7 and let him be a
stallion. Let him oversee the mares and foals and the activity
on the farm. Don't isolate him. Keep him on a schedule. Work
him, ride him, channel that energy into something positive.
Use him for breeding in the same spot every time and keep the
routine the same so he'll know exactly what is expected of
him. Correct him firmly and promptly and let it go, don't pick
at him or put him in situations that provoke
confrontations. Don't let people handle him or ride him who
are afraid of him. Don't let macho guys ( or girls) do
anything with him. Those people who think it is cool to be
able to handle a stallion and try to show off with them
eventually get hurt. Really the kindest thing is to geld them.
Lynn
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From:
Brenda L. Byers
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Parking
I wouldn't pinch both sides of the withers. I usually touch
them an inch or two below the withers on one side or the other
depending on which leg I want to move. My hubby makes the
mistake of taking his hand and covering the withers and
squeezing, I think this confuses the horse.
We start out our young horses parking right before they are
let out of the stall to play or right before graining. They
soon figure out that if they park they get something in
return. Plus, when they are under saddle I don't get off until
they park. Again they can relate a treat to
parking. When they park, I get off.
One other problem I have had with young colts is that they
will try to move their hind legs in when you push their front
legs out. Standing them up hill will help, they tend to keep
their back legs still when standing on a hill. Stand them on a
hill, set their hind feet, then set the front feet. If they
move, reprimand immediately then reset the feet. If they stand
for just a few seconds pet them and let them know they are
doing good. Each time make them stand a little longer.
Just sharing my experiences! IMO, I love a parked horse either
in the ring or on the trail. I'm only 5'2" so parking is a
must around my house.
Brenda
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From:
rockinw@peoplescom.net (Fanella Wood)
Subject: pesky mosquitoes
HERE'S A GREAT SUMMER TIP!
Here is a good thing for the summer, for those people who like
to sit and enjoy the out of doors, but don't like those pesky
mosquitoes. I found it on gardening forum:
Put some water in a white dinner plate and add just a couple
of drops of Lemon Fresh Joy dishwashing soap. Put it on your
patio. I don't know what attracts them, the lemon smell, the
white color, or what, but mosquitoes flock to it, and drop
dead, and fall into the water, or on the floor within about 10
ft. I always have some problems with mosquitoes getting into
my big old house, so I set up one of these traps in my
kitchen, on the counter, a few days ago. Works just super.
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From: Lynnea
LeBreton
To:
Gaitedtexas@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:07 AM
Subject: [Gaitedtexas] with Lotsa MAYO!!!!
Old Trick.... after clipping spread a few huge handfuls of
Mayonnaise all over him. The egg and oils will make him shine.
Let it sit for a few hours and then shampoo off. Don't laugh,
it works!
Lynnea
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From: "Gary
Clark"
dblcwalk@brokersys.com
Hi!
Thought you'd like to know about a really useful new web page
that demonstrates how to trim and shoe horses to help improve
intermediate gaits. This is EXCELLENT information, taken from
Brenda Imus' book, GAITS OF GOLD.
You'll find it at:
http://www.crossoverpub.com/shoeing.html
Have a smoo-oo-ooth day!
Lee Wilson, Outreach Coordinator
CrossOver Publications
http://www.crossoverpub.com
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From: Anna
Barwick
ambarwick@yahoo.com
Hey All,
This is a neat web site regarding training, riding and ground
work. It touches on most of the NH techniques and has links
for more info. Includes TTEAM, Parelli, etc.
http://www.equestrienne.com/TheHorsePark/iceryder/ground.html
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From:
MetzTWH@aol.com
Re: trailering foals
(Where is Janet? She has the best method for baby trailering
I've ever seen.... hauled a weanling from PA to Florida...
with a video camera in the trailer and the TV screen in the
truck so they could see her.... really cool.)
If anyone needs to know how my husband rigged the camera/TV
setup let me know and I'll ask him for instructions. We didn't
buy anything special except some cable and connectors. We used
our video camera and our little Sony B&W Watchman TV. The
truck and trailer are still wired so anytime we need to use it
we just put the camera on the mount in the trailer and plug in
the TV inside the truck.
It was wonderful to be able to watch Latte' and know how she
was doing. It also helped us make good time since we didn't
have to stop as often just to check on her (which would have
been every 10 minutes LOL). I learned some really interesting
things watching her for 1,000 miles. We have a 2 horse slant
Featherlite. We removed the divider and used the trailer like
a box stall. Latte' wasn't tied. She rode most of the time
sideways directly over the trailer axle. When she felt braking
she would turn and face the rear. We were on some bumpy under
construction highways in Virginia and it was very interesting
to see that she had a smoother ride than we did. I would have
thought just the opposite. One other thing I would recommend
is to have someone haul you in the trailer for a short
distance and notice the noise level. I found several things
that were banging and making much more noise than I would have
imagined. The tie rings were really bad. I ended up wrapping
them.
Janet
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From:" Mike
Aldredge"
hilhaven@industryinet.com
Subject: Mares with foals out together
Dodi,
Hi. It has been several years since I did that, but here's
what I did. Now, mind you I only had two mares w/foals to
worry with, but I surely did not let them run with any other
horses while they had their foals w/them. So one mare
delivered about 2 weeks before the other one. The second mare
and foal was put in with the other mare and foal when the
newest foal was about 1 week old. The mare w/ the newest foal
kept it away from the other foal for about another week. No
harm came to either and all went well between the mares. They
were accustomed to each other anyway.
Pat
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Subject:
Spurs/riding crop
From:
Suebaru2@aol.com
Before you use whips and spurs (and I use both), be certain
that you CAN use them. If you wear spurs, you want to be able
to use them when you WANT to use them, and not extraneously.
Take lessons (longe line lessons are best.. (heehee) so that
your leg learns to stay put and quiet, and you learn to use
the rest of your leg before your spur gets involved. In other
words, you want to be able to use the spur only to reinforce a
cue that the horse ignored. So... if you want the horse to do
something, you give a slight cue with your leg. If the horse
responds appropriately, that's all there is to it. If he
doesn't respond, you ask again with a stronger leg. If he
STILL doesn't respond, then a tap with the spur is in order...
and after that the whip gets involved. Some TWH trainers use
those big sharp evil spurs and they pull their legs back and
down and stick their heels up to jab the horse in the belly.
That will not produce a happy, willing horse. It will produce
a horse that goes hollow, resentful, and in pain.
Sue
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On Foals
Chewing Tails
From: "Karen Neal-Naylor"
goldustgirl@hotmail.com
There is a product I used to get at the pet stores in Oregon,
called Bitter Apple, I used it on my dogs to stop them from
chewing on themselves. Believe me it tastes really nasty, and
they won't try to keep chewing! <G> If your local pet stores
don't carry it, I bet they could order it for you.
Karen
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Michelle
Marble
mmarble@mindspring.com
(On fitting saddles)
I always use a pad of some sort, regardless of the saddle
type. NEVER put synthetic materials on your horse, ONLY use
cotton or wool pads or blankets. Synthetics can cause hot
spots. Most people fit the saddle TOO far forward. When
girthed, the girth should be at least a hands with behind the
elbow of the horse. Be sure that any metal on the girth (rings
on western, buckles on dressage girths) do not end directly
behind the elbow. The girth should be long enough to clear the
elbows on both sides, but not so long that you can't tighten
effectively. Always have leather billets on at LEAST on side
of the saddle (some saddles have web billets on both sides).
Web has no give, and in a dire emergency, leather will break
before injuring your horse too badly (i.e., say a stirrup gets
caught in a pole or tree branch or something and the horse is
running, the leather will break before your horse does!).
Always fit the saddle to look LEVEL on the horse's back. If
the back of the saddle is higher than the front, then the tree
is too wide, and the saddle is lying on the withers. If the
saddle is higher in the front, then you either have too narrow
a tree for the horse, or the horse has a dropped back (age,
broodmares, extremely high withers, etc), and you will either
need a wider tree (check the fit at the shoulders/withers) or,
if the horse has a dropped back, you will need a bump pad to
raise the back, but not the front. You should be able (after
the saddle is girthed) to insert your fingers between the
horse and the saddle at the shoulders WITHOUT feeling a
pressure point (i.e., the fit should be snug because you have
tightened the girth, but you should be able to put your hand
ANYWHERE between horse and saddle and feel uniform snugness,
but NOT a pinching point. Always check the BACK of the saddle.
Too often we check the wither/shoulder area, but forget to
check the back of the saddle. Some horses and saddle trees do
NOT mix in the back. Often I find a saddle that drops right
back on the rear of the horses back and when the person sits
in the saddle, it just exasperates the problem and the horse
is in excruciating pain. Remember, we want our horses to be
rewarded for rounding their back, not punished. The best money
you can spend is on quality tack that fits your horse
correctly. I would rather see the horse comfortable, and the
rider miserable, than the other way around. Buy for the horse,
not the rider (if you have to chose) and best option is buy a
saddle that fits both. I just learned recently that many of my
past discomforts in the saddle were due to trying to ride a
saddle that was too small for ME! I knew they fit the horse
right, but couldn't figure out why the saddle hurt me, after
all, it was supposed to be a quality saddle, and then
discovered that it was because it was REALLY too small, and I
did not realize it! Got a larger saddle, and have been a lot
happier! On western saddles, try to find one where the girth
ring (rigging) is not directly below the pommel of the saddle.
Many western saddles are rigged there, and this is a great
source of discomfort for the horse. The rigging should
actually be an inch or two BEHIND the pommel to reduce
pressure points on the horse.
Michelle
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From: Lynnea
LeBreton
Subject: scours & scalding
A good suggestion.... prior to the actual start of the Foal
Heat, put a nice thick layer of Vaseline on the foals cheeks,
hocks & underside of tail. It'll help prevent the scalding and
hair loss from the scours. ol' trick of mine,
Lynnea
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From: Becki Drozd
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 8:33 PM
Subject: on taming a foal
I would put the foal in the stall, too, and work with it
there. How Dar was saying to handle it was good. You must
always get the colt to face you--and when it does make sure
you reward it my being real still and just stand there. If it
sticks it's butt at you at anytime, you have to get it to turn
around and face you. If it has a tendency to kick, I would
take a crop or something in with me, any time it turns it's
butt at you, I would tap it on the butt and tell it no--when
you tap it the colt will move. So, if it moves and faces you,
you must reward it--so be still and stop moving--don't stare
at it in the eyes, either--any time it moves forward to you,
even a hint of forward, reward it by stepping back slightly.
this takes the pressure off the colt and gives it comfort.
Never chase it---chasing creates the most damage. Soon it
should feel comfortable enough where you can start attempting
to catch it up, by this I mean to at least get close to it. So
by now you should be able to enter the stall, the colt will
still probably move away from you, but turn around and look at
you. The next part is trying to go to the colt and touch
it---it will try to get away, but if it's not too vigorous
(meaning it doesn't throw a super-duper fit with rearing and
all that), you stay with that colt till it stops and when it
stops, immediately stop with it, pat it and reassure it that
you aren't going to hurt it. Start in that safe
zone---withers, shoulders, along the back. Find the spot it
likes to be rubbed the most--this may take a while. Eventually
you will want to be able to enter the stall, have the colt
turn and face you and when you ask it to come to you it will.
Then you start getting it de-sensitized all over it's
body--you approach and retreat with any area that is touchy.
Picking up the feet will be last--they won't let you pick up
their feet unless they trust you. As soon as you pick up a
foot and the colt relaxes, let the foot down. This is at least
a start!
Becki Drozd
once it is real comfy with you, turning it out with a horse
that loves to come running to get patted is the best, like
someone else already said. it will learn by example
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----- Original Message -----
From: Jana Anderson, DVM
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: another tip
In spite of all of our own biases (I have them too), research
has proven that (at least with thoroughbreds) those that are
started and raced at 2 or slightly younger are sounder as 5
year olds than those horses that were started as 3-4 year
olds. It has to do with bone stress and subsequent increased
bone strength. Keep in mind that these horses were on balanced
nutrition, and that many of our breeds' young horses aren't
fed properly (especially when it comes to mineral ratios and
the tendency for feeding excessive carbohydrates), thus the
problems we see the most of (OCD, physitis, etc.) aren't
directly due to early riding, but can be worsened by it. Good
genetics, conformation, proper hoof care and angles, and
nutrition are the key factors when it comes to preserving
soundness. After that, common sense tells us to avoid things
that could load their joints/tendons unevenly, i.e., uneven
ground and tight circles. And, remember the 25% rule--you and
your tack should not weigh more than 25% of your adult horses'
weight. It should be less for immature horses.
Jana Anderson, DVM |
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----- Original
Message -----
From:
Janet Sides
Sent: Nov. 6, 2002
Subject: Rain Rot
I use 4 oz Lysol cleaner in 2 gallons of
warm water, sponge it all over the horse and leave it on.
Repeat daily for a week and also clean their brushes and
saddle pads in the same solution. I have had great success
with this for many years. It doesn't dry their skin out and
make them itch, and it doesn't stain them weird colors.
Janet. |
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----- Original
Message -----
From:
John H. Lewis
Sent: Nov. 6, 2002
Subject: Rain Rot |
Anyone out there
suffering from rain rot? Your horses that is. With two plus
weeks of wet weather, 6 out of 8 of mine have had some or a
lot. If yours are in the same situation, below is a recipe
that seems to work well. It has cleared it up on my horses.
1/2 cup of vinegar
1/2 cup of iodine
1/2 cup of rubbing alcohol
1 Tablespoon of Clorox
Happy trails, John |
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PHONE:
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0623 or
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7073
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